The Wolf
630 years ago in the Forest of Cartmel the chase was on. The last wolf in England was running for his life. Along Windermere lakeshore, the pursuit finally reached Humphreys Head, high above the bay. Here where the land meets the sea, the game was up. John Harrington took the Wolf and became local folklore, winning lands and the damsel in marriage. The wolf however became legend, he lives on as a weathervane on top of Cartmel priory. Where he marks the wind direction. He also lives on in Unsworth’s Yard Brewery’s untamed “The Last Wolf” beer, reminding us all, of what was once wild.
My pack today joined Bowland & Bay retracing the wolf and his appetite across Cartmel, Bowness and the Lyth Valley. Our quarry was based on whispers of the future legends in a taste bud revolution. The weathervane was pointing us true north.
The Herdwick, Heft & Henrock
Heft is a Cumbrian word, it describes how the Herdwicks learn their own lands without need of fences. Passed down from ewe to lamb, they become bonded to the mountains and the forests. It is the beautiful word Kevin & Nicole Tickle have named their restaurant and where they capture the wilderness in zen tranquillium bowls of food.
The menu is set by nature. As Kevin watches the seasons and forages the landscape. We all eat the same daily changing set menu and share the experience together. It was epic. From St James & roast yeast crumpet, cornfed chicken with ewe’s curd & garden courgette, to scorched pear, blackberry, mascarpone ice cream. This truly is food from their homeland and this was only one part of a day of food heroes and heroines.
Jo had booked Bowland & Bay as a warm up act for her half century, a chance for 3 couples to go on a foodie exploration. To see the very latest & greatest artisans, creating food with soul, in the fells and along the coastline. This bespoke day, pre booked 6 weeks in advance, gave me maximum scope to let the adventure run wild. How do you balance a day with Heft at its heart? Well Simon Rogan’s Henrock was added to the list. At 4 o’clock we were sat above Bowness on Windermere eating magical chocolate sundaes, soft yolk scotch eggs and powerhouse punching cocktails.
Then the lakes did it’s greatest parlour trick. The mists of the earlier day started to lift and we headed up the Lyth Valley to watch one of the greatest shows on Earth. A bay golden sunset high above Sizergh castle. Somehow we had fitted in olive sourdough fresh from the bakers, damson brownie pantry delights outside Kendal, wine, cheese & huntsman pie tasting in the yards of Cartmel, some of Mr Rogan’s incredible chocolate, plus Heft & Henrock. Stood on the fellside above the bay, Jo said she was so happy she could cry….food and friendship…and some wonderful folks creating and making incredible memories.
Fairy Tail Ending
We were struggling to let the day go, one final stop on the home straight. Another pandemic phoenix tail. We reached Accidental Brewery in the very epicentre of Lancaster. Soon enough we were sat around a picnic table awash with third pints of IPAs, Sours, Stouts and DIPAs. Hop laden, fruit driven and in one case Christmas Tree spruced. In a final act of serendipity, Jo bumped into friends and fellow farmers and I got to meet the folks behind Cockerham Salt Marsh Lamb. In Bowland & Bay the foodie heaven is all around. We reached out for the future stars of food and they lit up the skyline with their talent and warmth. Absolutely “all the better to eat you with” Mr Wolf.
